You’ve got your surfboard, you waxed your board, put on the leash, and you’re ready to paddle. The only problem? It’s an epic day and the beach break is FULL of people … Not the best for surfers.
I am from Sydney, Australia, and although I am not a professional surfer, I am certainly above average skill level and fitness level (I am / was a professional tennis player).
Before we get into the tips for getting the most waves, there are a few considerations to keep in mind regarding surf etiquette:
1. I grew up in Sydney. This is a city known all over the world for its surfing. Many breaks are crowded throughout the year and packed with tourists / beginners. The most famous beach getaway is Bondi Beach … If this type of beach is your local then this guide is for you – think of the crowds at Huntington, Malibu, Snapper, Pipeline … only Bondi has waves that don’t They come close to the same quality as the aforementioned venues, but sometimes larger crowds.
2. One of the main concerns of surfers is if there are other OPTIONS for nearby waves. If you stop at your beach / area and there are people on each wave, take into account the number of wave sets and how many don’t ride, that will tell you if there is room for you / your crew, DO NOT PADDLE. Go to another local spot on the road and surf the break there.
If you’re younger like me, and you went to the beach with your parents, analyzing swell / wind / tide changes and expectations, you may have been inclined to push for the “better” surf option. That being said, Mom wants her coffee, so we go to the always crowded place and that’s it. Penalty fee. Paddle through the crowd, but be respectful of others and don’t go for every wave.
Be curious, if you can still surf good waves on a less crowded beach, go ahead and save yourself the hassle of those in the water having to deal with someone else in your way.
Okay, with that necessary courtesy waiver, let’s get into this:
How to get the most waves when there are a lot of people:
Step 1: observation
There are a few factors at play that you should first consider before understanding the best way to catch waves. As always, you should LOOK at the ocean for 15-20 minutes before entering to find out where the waves are, where the wave peaks are (for a good take-off point), and where the best waves catch … usually by the majority. Experienced surfers who are not necessarily in great physical condition, although this is often the case, but who understand the mechanics of the ocean.
* Note: Please do not go out if you think conditions are too challenging for your ability. Be on the lookout for rocks, rips, currents, wave heights, or blush sets. *
Step 2: understanding
You want to visualize yourself doing what the best surfers do on any given day. This means having ocean landmarks to know if you are too far away or out of position on the reef / bank. Usually this is a house / tree / sign … something you can use to line up where you sit and make sure you are in the best spot to catch waves.
This may seem obvious to an advanced surfer, however many surfers just paddle out and sit next to whoever it is. This might work on occasions to get a good wave if the banks are messy (not lining up in the same spot consistently) but not on really good days, and I know those are the ones to go for.
Step 3: Fitness?
This is where you need to make a realistic judgment about your physical ability, experience, the board, your navigation, hazards or difficulty in takeoff, and the ability of others in the lineup.
Ask yourself, “How far could I sit and still have enough speed to catch the waves I want?” The answer will vary based on factors like your physical ability, board type, etc. as I mentioned, but basically you want to sit “deeper” or “further away” than others in order to have priority in riding the wave (I will explore this concept for a moment).
Being on the wave earlier means standing up earlier, and standing earlier means better / faster control of your positioning on the wave.
A common example is the longboarder vs shortboarder. The 9-foot longboard paddles easier, generating more speed with less effort, and catches waves “before” or earlier than a shorter board with less volume and buoyancy. Therefore, the longboarder sits further away, allowing him to better choose his waves.
One idea on a REALLY good day might be to ride a thicker / longer board depending on the conditions as there will probably be a lot of good surfers taking advantage of the big waves … this forecast for a bigger board allows you (maybe the most weak or less experienced surfer) to have fun and catch some waves, which is what this sport is all about.
Step 4: Priority: the unwritten golden rule of surfing
As I mentioned earlier, the idea is to have “priority” or “be in the best position” to catch the wave so that it becomes “yours”.
Within yourself and the capacity of your board, you need to sit further than the other surfers and / or “deeper” or “closer” to the breaking point. This just means that if you’re riding a wave that breaks to the right (from the direction you’re paddling), you’ll want to be on the other surfers on the left looking to catch that wave as well.
For beach break or A-shaped waves that break in an “A” shape (both left and right), there will generally be two people who will go for the wave with the best priority … the only difference is the guy from the right (with priority to all surfers on your right) goes to the right and vice versa.
Get priority paddling early and deeper than others. Many people, when they see someone paddle early with a purpose, they usually back off if they have intermediate or lower ability.
Step 5: Commit – Go ahead!
Finally, in a crowded break, everyone goes to row. It is just a standard fact. My advice would be to wait at least for the second or third wave of the set to have a clearer line to row when half the lineup loses the first wave.
You can also let others fight for average waves and gain some goodwill to “give” others some waves. This way, when you turn and paddle down the really good wave you want, you will have people who will allow you to have your turn to surf more freely than otherwise.
Make noise. It is a fact that the alpha of any group is bigger and louder than the others in the animal kingdom, so use this psychology to your advantage. People will know that you are serious because you have claimed the wave. Although this technique is only really valid among the most experienced surfers due to the now greater need to make the waves you ask for, or you will lose credibility among the lineup and cause the waves to not ride … which nobody wants.
* Note: Only request a wave if you are in the best position and have priority. In localized places like Oahu, Hawaii, you could get punched if you do it the wrong way. I would also recommend this idea only in an epic quality session … you are often considered an idiot if you try too hard on a bad surf day. Just surf, you will get your waves even if you are short on time. *
That is all! Follow these tips and you are sure to get more waves and have more fun. Some places are obviously more difficult to get more waves due to the skill required to surf them, the size of the take-off zone, the quality and popularity of the waves, etc., however, apply these ideas to your local crowded breaker and surely You will get more respect and waves at the same time. Win, win.
There are many surf-fit videos on YouTube, just search for “surf fitness” and it should be fine if you want to improve your strength, endurance, balance, and overall ability.
Health.